After reading about this restaurant in the magazine I was
really excited to try it out. From the pictures alone it was obvious that the
soup would be to Husband’s and my liking. えいしん
(Eishin) is located a little out of town on the way north along the beach towards
Niigata city. We have passed by it a few times on our way to go swimming in the
ocean and avoid the “海の家 (umi no ie)”, or “pay us to go to
the beach”, setups that occupy Joetsu’s city beach area.
The Komachi magazine has reviews of all the shops and breaks
them down into categories like こってり (kotteri, - rich flavor), つけ面 (tsukemen - cold noodles for dipping into a separate
broth), or 辛い (karai - spicy). えいしん is listed under the top ten to
check out for their chashu. The Japanese believe that うま味
(umami) is the fifth basic taste alongside sweet, sour, bitter and salty and is
said to be a taste all its own along the lines of what we would call savory. Wikipedia’s
description of うま味 states that:
People taste umami through
receptors for glutamate, commonly found in its
salt form as the food additive monosodium
glutamate (MSG). For that reason, scientists consider umami to be distinct from saltiness.
The magazine describes the chashu at えいしんas
rich with うま味, so it was clear we were in for a savory delight for
our dinner.
As previously mentioned, Husband and I have a preference for
rich, strong flavoring when it comes to Ramen broth. When our bowls were handed
to us over the counter from the chef we instantly knew we were not going to be disappointed.
The aroma alone was incredible, hearty notes of pork wafted up from the
steaming bowl. The soup was clear, brown, and rich with shoyu flavor. After
spending the first few minutes just lapping up spoonfuls of the delicious broth, which was very light for being so flavorful, we moved on to the rest of the bowl. The noodles were straight and thin, but
with great texture and cooked perfectly. There were no doubts about the noodles
not being done right after seeing the chef testing the doneness of the boiling
hot noodles by checking them with his bare hands.
The Ramen was topped with the usual menma and sliced green
onions, but a first for us on this adventure was a piece of steamed bok choy.
And then there was the chashu. The magazine certainly did not mislead us in
believing that this pork would be amazing. We each ordered chashu-men so as to
have more than just one or two pieces to enjoy, and we are both thankful we
chose this option. The meat was so soft and tender it fell apart with the
slightest pressure. The flavor can only be described as the truest definition
of うま味. The whole bowl came together in a perfect
collaboration of savory meat, rich broth and chewy noodles.
The Husband was in heaven. He is, obviously, the biggest fan
of my homemade Ramen experiments, and stated that this was the closest in taste
to how I make mine. A great compliment to me as I was worried my soup may be a
little too rich for some. Clearly this isn’t an issue at えいしん as
this shop has been open for at least thirty years and has also been doing
delivery Ramen for that long. Delivery Ramen! We got to watch the staff
assemble quite a large delivery order that came in by phone while we were
eating. Each bowl was assembled, covered in a rubber banded saran wrap combo,
stacked in a shelved metal box and then whisked away by the fanny-pack wearing
wife of the chef.
Fully satisfied we paid for our dinner and left the shop,
only after checking out the third and final bonus quiz question. It asked if
the stools seats that lined the counter were green, they were red so this was
another X mark circled in the stamp book. Upon further translation attempts, I
think the quiz has something to do with choosing your three favorite shops and
answering the questions to win a bonus prize. えいしん
will certainly make the list for being one of our top three favorite spots in
town.
えいしん (Eishin) |
Chashu-men upon first glance. Clear broth, tender pork, and bok choy floating at the top. |
It was difficult to stop eating to snap this second picture in order to show the noodles. |
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